Method of making unturned shoes



.Aug- 4, 1942 I J. DlscENzA y 2,291,799

METHOD voF `MAKING UNTURNEDl sHoEs Filed June 4, 1941 i Illlllllllr if'.

Patented Aug. 4, 1942 f Y UNiTED ras OFFICE 3 Claims.

This invention consists of a method of making an unturned single soleshoe either cemented, stitched or Welted.

This application is a continuation in part of my copending-applicationSerial No. 321,423 filed February 29, 1940, for Unturned shoe and methodof making same.

As is Well known there is a large demand for shoes with a single sole,especially for womens wear. Such single sole shoes have usually beenmade heretofore by putting the upper on the last inside out, the sole isthen secured to the upper either by cementing or stitching, and the shoeafter the'last is removed, is then turned inside out and ready for wear.

There are a number of disadvantages in the method of'making a turnedshoe with a single sole as now practiced. One of them is that in view ofthe fact that the shoe has to be turned inside out after it is finished,the upper cannot be put on the last with suicient tightness to attain aperfect shape and fit. Another objection is that when the shoe is turnedit becomes somewhat distorted or out of shape. Furthermore it requiredconsiderable time to make a turned shoe for the reason that the turningis a separate operation.

Another objection is that in a turned shoe as now made a comparativelyheavy sole is required to which the upper must be very securely fastenedby stitching, because of the strain placed upon the shoe in the processof turning.

It is an object of the present invention to form a shoe with a singleflexible sole by a method which eliminates the turning step in themethod of manufacturing,

A further` object of the invention is to make an unturned shoe with athinner and more nexible single sole of lighter weight than can beobtained by making a turned shoe.

A still further object lies in the improved method of making a weltedshoe.

Although the novel features which are believed to be characteristic ofthis invention will be more particularly pointed out in the claimsappended hereto, the invention itself may be better understocd byreferring to the following descrip-v tion taken with the accompanyingdrawing, in which a particular embodiment of the invention has been setforth for the purpose of illustration.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 represents a last partly embodying my invention before the upperof the shoe is placed thereon;

Fig. 2 shows a last with the upper thereon, and the steel shank member.

Fig. 3 is -a perspective view of a completed shoe made in accordancewith the invention before the last is removed.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view taken on the line 4 4 of Fig. 1 showing theremovable leather half insole hereinafter to be referred to.

Fig. 5 is a sectionalview taken on the line 5 5 of Fig. 2, showing theupper around the last and the removable leather half insole.

Fig. 6 yis -a sectional view taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 3 showing asection of a shoe with the sole cemented on before the removable leatherhalf insole is removed.

Fig. 7 is a View taken on the line E S of Fig. 3 but after the shoe hasbeen relasted showing the sole secured by a McKay stitch in anexaggerated form and before the removable leather half insole isremoved. f

Fig. 8 is another sectional View taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 3 showinga completed shoe withv the sole cemented to the upper and the removableleather half insole and last taken out.

Fig. 9 is a plan view of the removable leather half insole and leathershank member.

Fig. 10 is a bottom .plan view of a lasted shoe with a welt stitched tothe upper.

Fig. 11 is a sectional View on line H H of Fig. 10 showing a shoe with awelt before the outer sole is put on the shoe.

Fig. 12 is a Ibottom plan View of a shoe on a last with a temporaryreinforcing member over the removable insole and portion of the shank.

Fig. 13 is `a sectional View of the forepart of a finished welt shoe.

Fig. 14 is a sectional View at the shank of a iinished welt shoe.

The method of making a single soled stitched or cemented shoe is asfollows:

A wooden last of the usual type designated by the numeral l0 is used. Tothe heel portion of said last a usual Imetal plate lila is secured ofsuiicient area to -cover the heel portion only. A removable leather halfinsole I I is temporarily tacked at I2 to the front part of the last.This removable half insole is preferably made of leather for the reasonthat it is desirable to .use it a number of times and when made ofleather, the holes made by the tacks automatically ll up, so that thesame removable half insole can be used a number of times. I do notconfine myself to leather, however, as this temporary half insole may bemade of some stiffened fabric material or leather composition or anymaterial that -may be desired. A leather shank portion I3 is then tackedto the last at I4. This shank -piece extends from the heel and. overlapsthe temporary leather remov-able half insole II but is not securedthereto.

The upper of the shoe is designated by the numeral I5. This upper isthen placed over the last and the inturned margin I6 thereof cementedover the edges of the temporary half insole II preferably by rubbercement or some cement that is not permanent in order that the halfinsole may later be easily removed. Tacks I4a. are temporarily drivenall around the margin I6 of the upper. These tacks Ida extend throughthe inturned margin I 5 of the upper, through the outer margin of thetemporary insole I I and Vinto the Wooden last I0. After the cement hasset, the temporary tacks I4a around the shank and Vfore part, includingthe tack or tacks holding the temporary half insole on the last arewithdrawn, as well as such of the tacks I4 which temporarily secure theleather shank piece I3 to -the Wooden last. The tacks in the heelportion are driven down through the margin of Ythe upper on the shankpiece and are clinched against the metal plate Ia hereinbefore mentionedand these tacks at the heel portion remain p ermanently in the finishedshoe together with the leather shank portion I3.

The edges of the inturned margin I6 of the upper I5 are then skived orbufed to make them as smooth as possible. A steel shank stiffeningmember I'I is then secured either by a tack or tacks or a prong in theusual manner. This shank member I'I extends over the leather shank pieceI3 down to the heel. The temporary half insole I I is then waxed ortreated with some substance that Will not permanently adhere to cement,so that it may be readily removed when the shoe is completed ashereinafter more fully explained. In a cement shoe an outer sole I8extending from the heel to t-he toe is cemented at I9 to the upper asshown in Figs. 3, 6 and 8. The heel is then put on and the shoefinished. The last Ii) which, as is usual, is made of two pieces, isthen unlocked and removed. The removable half insole II is pulled out,and the shoe is then lined and ready for wear.

When it is desired to make a stitched shoe without a welt by eitherplain or McKay stitching, the lasting procedure is the same as just setforth in ythe description for making a cemented shoe. The outer sole I8is then secured by cement to the shank and inturned vmargin I6 of theupper. Cement is placed on the margin of the sole I8 and some on theshank and around the inturned margin of the upper. The shoe is removedfrom the last in order to have the upper I5 sewed to the outer sole I8either by plain or McKay stitching. The shoe Yis then put back on thelast for putting the heel Von, and the shoe then finished. The last isfinally removed and the removable inner half sole I I is taken out. Asin the case of the cemented shoe, the shoe is then ready for theinsertion of the sock lining and when lined is ready to wear.

In making a Welt shoe the removable inner half sole II is temporarilyattached to the last and the leather shank piece I3 overlaps the sameWithout being secured thereto. The upper I5 is then placed over the lastand rits inturned margin IS cemented preferably by rubber .or somecement which temporarily holds the margin of the upper over theremovable leather half insole II and the usual tacks Illa are inserted.7 5

After the cement is set the tacks IlIa are all withdrawn excepting thosein the heel portion which are driven through and clinched over on themetal plate Illa. The edges of the margin I6 of the upper I5 are thenskived or buffed. The temporary removable leather insole is waxed. Inother words up to this point the procedure is the same as previouslydescribed in making a cement or non-welt stitched shoe.

I have found that in stitching a welt 2I onto the upper on the sewingmachine, the removable half insole II may become loose. In order toovercome that difculty and to give strength to the shoe While the Welt2I is being stitched onto the upper, I place a temporary reinforcingmember 22 of leather or some thin material over `the removable innerhalf sole II and a portion of rthe shank, Fig. l2, and secure the samethereto by rubber cement or some similar cement which is not of apermanent character. This temporary removable reinforcing member -is ofthe same area in the fore part as the removable insole II but is longerthan the removable insole and extends well down the shank and nearly tothe heel portion as shown in Fig. 12. It is temporarily cemented overthe temporary insole I I, the greater portion of the shank I3 and thatportion of the inturned margin I6 which extends over the edge of thetemporary insole I I in order to permit the Welt 2I to be secured to theupper I5 without the welt stitches passing through the temporary insoleII. The last I0 is then removed and the welt is sewed on, the stitchespassing through the welt, through the margin of the upper I5 and throughthe shank piece I3 as appears in Fig. 14 which is a sectional View of alwelt .shoe having the outer sole I8 cemented to the welt. The shoe withthe welt attached to the upper is put back on the last, the reinforcingmember 22 is then removed. -The steel shank is then put on. If acemented shoe with a welt is to be made then the outer sole I8 iscemented with a permanent cement to the heel portion, shank and welt.The heel is then placed on and the shoe finished and the temporary halfinsole is removed and a sock lining put in the shoe.

If, on the other hand, the outer sole I8 is to be stitched to the welt,it is lightly cemented to the shank and welt to hold it in placetemporarily and the sole I8 is permanently sewed on to the welt whilethe shoe is on the last. The heel seat of the outsole is nailed to theheel seat of the lleather `shank piece. The heel is put on and the shoefinished. The last is withdrawn and the removable inner half sole II isthen removed from `the shoe and the sock lining yput in andthe shoe isready to wear. A welt shoe made in this way gives greater flexibilityand comfort to the wearer and lgreater strength to the shoe than isattained by the present known methods of making a welt shoe.

It will be understood, and the drawings show, that the removable leatherhalf insole II is of less area than the last although of the samecontour. This has to be the case in order to permit its removal afterthe upper is secured to the sole. If it were of the same size as thelast then when the sole or welt was stitched on to the upper thestitches would naturally go through the inner half sole and it could notbe removed.

It will be seen that the foregoing method of making a shoe produces anunturned single sole shoe, either cemented or stitched and with a weltwhen desired. Shoes made in accordance with this method save aboutone-third of the time required in the making of the usual turned shoe.It will be obvious that the same last can be used in carrying out mymethod as is used on the cemented, welt and stitched shoe.

Although a particular embodiment of the invention has been shown forpurposes of illustration, it is to be understood that various changesand modifications may be made therein, as will readily appear to aperson skilled in the art. The invention is to be limited only inaccordance with the following Iclaims.

What is claimed is:

1. 'I'he method of making an unturned welt single sole shoe whichcomprises temporarily attaching a half insole conforming in shape but ofless area than the bottom of the last on to the front of the last;temporarily tacking to the last a. leather shank member extending fromthe heel and overlapping a portion of the removable half insole memberbut not secured thereto; temporarily cementing and tacking the margin ofthe upper to the shank piece and the removable inner half sole;withdrawing all tacks after the cement has set excepting those aroundthe heel portion; waxing the removable inner half sole; securing areinforcing member over the removable inner half sole and part of theinner margin of the upper; removing the last and stitching a welt to theleather shank piece and to the upper; relasting the shoe and removingthe reinforcing member; securing a steel shank on to the leather shankportion; securing an outer sole to the welt; placing the heel on andfinishing the shoe and removing the last and the removable inner halfsole.

2. The method of making an unturned welt single sole shoe whichcomprises temporarily attaching a half insole conforming in shape but ofless area than the bottom of the last on to the front of the last;temporarily tacking a leather shank member to the last extending fromthe heel and overlapping a portion of the removable half insole memberbut not secured thereto; temporarily cementing and tacking the margin ofthe upper to the shank piece and the removable inner half sole; removingall tacks after the cement has set excepting those around the heel;temporarily cementing a reinforcing member of the same configuration butof less area than the last to the removable half sole, part of the innermargin of the upper and shank piece portion; removing the last andstitching a Welt to the leather shank piece and to the upper; replacingthe last and removing the reinforcing member; securing a steel shank onto the leather shank portion; waxing the removable inner half sole;cementing an outer sole over the entire bottom of the shoe and stitchingsaid outer sole to the welt; putting the heel thereon and finishing theshoe; removing the last and the removable inner half sole.

3. 'Ihe method of making an unturned welt single sole shoe whichcomprises temporarily attaching a half insole conforming in shape but ofless area than the bottom of the last on to the front of the last;temporarily tacking to the last a leather shank member extending fromthe heel and overlapping a portion of the removable half insole memberbut not secured thereto; temporarily cementing and tacking the margin ofthe upper to the shank piece and the removable inner half sole; removingall tacks after the cement has set excepting those around the heel;skiving the edges of the upper; temporarily cementing a reinforcingmember of the same configuration but of less area than the last to theremovable half sole, inturned margin of the upper and shank pieceportion; removing the last and stitching a welt to the leather shankpiece and to the upper, replacing the last and removing the reinforcingmember; securing a steel shank to the leather shank portion; waxing theremovable inner half sole; cementing an outer sole over the entirebottom of the shoe; putting the heel thereon and iinishing the shoe;removing the last and the removable inner half sole.

' JOHN DISCENZA.

